October is a wonderful time to visit Provence.  The fall weather may require a sweater—even a coat if the Mistral really blows into town—but the sun is typically bright and a good table is always available at Café Gaby.  In contrast to August, when we are often in Lourmarin, the size of the weekly market and the length of the day both shrink significantly but the peaceful ambience of the village grows immensely and more than compensates.

My initial introduction to this revered resource was in Aix-en-Provence.  We were staying in the “Hotel Des Augustins“, a medieval convent that, after the French Revolution, was converted into a hotel and, then later, remodeled into the charming 29-room hotel we found in 1999. Many of its period features were retained, including its lovely marble staircase, its antiquity evidenced by the swooping centers of each stair.  One evening, on the way to dinner, our 7-year old daughter slipped on the last stair, the only consequence of which was…
minor but required a little first aide:  the tip of the pencil she was carrying was now embedded in the palm of her hand!

I later learned that a pharmacist in France spends six to nine years, depending on his or her specialization, getting a “diploma e’état de Docteur en Pharmacie,’” the requisite degree to practice pharmacy in France.  It is a highly competitive field to enter and advanced specializations are even more competitive. (In the U.S., the Pharm.D. degree typically takes four years, after two years of undergraduate coursework in “pre-pharmaceutical” classes although most students have completed more undergraduate coursework before applying to a Pharm.D. program.)

Since that time, we have sought the services of pharmacies in France for everything from skin care and cold remedies to guidance about which wild mushrooms are edible—ten years ago, the chief pharmacist in Lourmarin organized a mushroom hunt in the nearby Luberon forest—and, recently, advice about an acute eruption of small pink bumps on my husband’s arms after picking figs.

Upon entering  la Pharmacie de Lourmarin, like all French pharmacies, one encounters rows upon rows of skin care products—some very expensive in the United States, like Darphin—as well as teas galore, various digestive aids, an impressive number of weight-loss and anti-water retention agents,  homeopathic treatments, veterinary products, and the more mundane toothpaste, soaps, and sunglasses.  The vast majority of drugs—even aspirin—lies behind the counter, requiring a conversation with the pharmacist (and sometimes a prescription).

Some people are happiest in a department store, others in a hardware store, and still others in huge grocery store.  Me, give me a French pharmacy and I am content for hours.  (Ask my husband or daughter!)

I explained to the pharmacist—as best I could in my limited French—that my throat had a persistent tickle causing me to cough and that my nose was running but my head was “stuffed up.”  The pharmacist could see that my eyes were watering and that one hand was clutching tissues while the other one was covering my mouth as I coughed.

Tisane is a non-caffeinated tea.  Most pharmacies, like the one in Lourmarin, blend their own tisanes and also sell other pre-packaged teas.  I picked up one for relaxation, but are others available to help with cough suppression, digestion, increasing energy, weight loss, mental acuity, and so on.

I left the pharmacy, my bag bulging with medicinal supplies, and headed back to La Bonbonnière where I holed up for about two days.  I faithfully used the Balsofumine, saline solution, and Actifed and drank lots of liquids.  It wasn’t long until I before emerged feeling re-energized to continue my adventures!

I returned to the pharmacy to poke around later in the week. The astute reader has already gathered that I love French pharmacies.  They are not like the drug stores we find in the States that, over the years, seem to have morphed into convenience stores.  There is no ice cream, greeting cards, or film services.  Definitely no alcohol (except the rubbing type!).  In contrast to pharmacies in the States, the pharmacists are not behind a counter—they are out on the floor providing individual, highly professional help to each person.  You may have to wait your turn, but when it arrives, you will have the pharmacist’s undivided attention.

Health, hygiene, and cosmetic products are their focus.  First aid is a significant part of their community practice, an approach that undoubtedly shortens the long-lines in emergency rooms, thereby lowering health care costs, too. (Drug stores, such as CVS in the States, are experimenting with such a model in selected metropolitan areas, an approach our local pharmacist was very excited about.) French pharmacies also sell and rent crutches, walkers, wheelchairs, blood pressure cuffs, etc., a service we made use of when our daughter injured her knee playing soccer and needed crutches.  They take back unused drugs (and send them to third-world countries). They are required, as part of the government’s efforts to prevent the spread of HIV/AIDS, to have condom vending machines outside the store (so that condoms are available 24/7).  French pharmacies are an integral part of the community and the health care system.

So, the next time you are in France, make sure to look for the flashing neon green cross and stop in.  If you are in the market for skin care products, consider Darphin, Institut Esthederm, La Roche Posay, Caudalie, and Nuxe. If you are having trouble adjusting to a different time zone—and your trips to the bathroom are not productive—there are many products to help.  If the powerful Mediterranean sun has taken its toll on your skin, there is something for you (our daughter would recommend Osmo Soft).  If you have a scar that just won’t go away, try Cicatryl. If you are feeling the effects of rich dinners and too much wine—a condition referred to as the crise de foie—there are lots of products from which to choose.  And, if all that good food has added a kilo or two, there are antidotes for that, too.

Pas de problème at the French pharmacie!

 

* Useful phrases when you visit a French pharmacy.

Je ne te fais pas de bises ca je suis enrhumé
I can’t give kisses because I have a cold.

Je suis en rhumé.
I have a cold.

Je suis malade.
I am ill.

J’ai une indigestion.
I have indigestion.

J’ai mal à la tête.
I have a headache.

J’ai une mauvaise toux.
I have a bad cough.

J’ai mal au ventre.
I have a stomach ache.

J’ai de la fièvre.
I have a fever.

J’ai des frissons.
I have chills.

Examinez cette blessure, s’il vous plait.
Please examine this wound.

J’ai une allergie contre….
I am allergic to….

Avez-vous quelque chose contre un rhume?
Have you something for a cold?

J’ai pris un coup de soleil.
I have a sunburn.

Je voudrais de l’aspirine.
I would like some aspirin.

Je voudrais voir vos produits debeauté
I would like to see your beauty products.

Je voudrais une tisane pour la constipation.
I would like a tisane for constipation.

S’il vous plaît vérifier si ces champignons sont mangeables?
Please check these mushrooms—are they okay to eat?