At the height of lavender season in Provence—the largest lavender- producing region in the world—the industry is worried. The iconic flower is in trouble and the culprit is the cicadelle, a tiny insect with a voracious appetite. Production has plummeted in the last decade, dropping to as little as one third of what it was in 2000. Although lavender grows wild in many areas of the world and is cultivated in many countries (notably England, Spain, Bulgaria and the three west coast states of the United States), French lavender is considered to be the finest. Provence sets the standard—its lavandula angustifolia (synonym, Lavandula officinalis and…

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Lavender is a magnet for tourists to Provence. Our post, “Lavender: A Flower Rooted in Sun-Drenched Provence,” remains our most read article and questions about lavender season dominate our inquiries. That a factory tour in sunny Provence is a popular tourist destination may not be such a surprise, then, when the company is L’Occitane, manufacturer of lavender-infused lotions, soaps, bath and shower gels, essential oils and much, much more. L’Occitane–pronounced “lox-ee-tan”—stores have popped up all over the States and around the world in recent years. Surely you know the ochre-colored boutiques with the peculiar word inscribed across the top. L’Occitane boutiques in Annapolis, Maryland and…

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Paris’ famous Cathedral of Notre-Dame is about to celebrate its 850th anniversary. In anticipation of this major event, and amidst some controversy, the four bells located at the top of the North Tower—christened, as is the custom for all sacred objects, Angélique-Françoise, Antoinette-Charlotte, Hyacinthe-Jeanne, and Denise-David—will soon be removed, melted down and replaced. These four bells were cast in 1856, per the request of Napoleon III who wanted them to mark the occasion of his son’s baptism, and have rung every 15 minutes since then. As part of a $3.5 million project (that will also renovate the cathedral’s vast lighting system and famous organ), the…

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The heart of Apt, where the market unfolds every Saturday, is a labyrinth of narrow streets dating back to its Roman period. Julius Caesar is said to have christened the town Apta Julia in 125 BCE. Then, it was an important town on the Via Domitia, the main passage between Italy and Spain. Later, in the Middle Ages, Apt was a principal religious center. Little evidence of Apt’s Roman days remain but the lovely 11th/12th century Sainte Anne Cathedral–actually, it was relegated to a basilica in the early 19th century–dedicated to the mother of the Virgin Mary, is testimony to Apt’s importance as a religious…

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This post is the third in a series that will feature each of the ten markets that The Modern Trobadors always visit when in Provence. The markets were selected primarily on the basis of the quality of the offerings of the vendors and the ambiance of the venue although practicality was also considered to some extent (e.g., distance from our home in Lourmarin, market options on that day of the week, convenience of parking, etc.). Bottom line is that these are the markets we visit when we are in Provence. Again and again…and again. The Sunday Market at L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is a cornucopia of the usual fruits,…

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France is poised to implement its controversial yet very popular law that bans the full Islamic veil in all public places. On April 11th, it will take effect. At the same time, Muslim leaders in Marseille, with the support of local and national politicians, are overseeing the construction of the nation’s largest mosque. Perhaps ironically, work began the day after the French government put its stamp of approval on the burqa ban bill, back in May 2010. On the very north side of Marseille’s famous Old Port district the €22 million Grand Mosque of Marseille will soon complement Notre Dame de la Garde, the Roman…

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If world-famous artists like Paul Cezanne and Vincent Van Gogh fell in love with Provence, Montana wildlife painter Monte Dolack says it’s got something to do with the luminous landscape and the culture he too found so captivating during recent trips there. “There’s a sense of wildness, but almost no natural forest. It’s shaped because of people planting things, so it has a different look that’s kind of intriguing,” said Dolack (who has stayed twice in our rental apartment in Lourmarin). “The vegetation is subtropical– palm trees, oranges, lemons. And the French are terrific at taking care of it.” Lourmarin And in the Lourmarin area…

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This week’s posting is written conjunction with David Scott Allen, Editor of Cocoa & Lavender, who is posting a two-part series on truffles entitled, “Life in Black and White.” This past Wednesday (11/24/10), he discussed black truffles and featured his wonderful recipe for Fettuccine with Truffle Butter. Next Wednesday (12/1/10), he will focus on white truffles with an accompanying recipe. Towny and I have had the pleasure of enjoying many meals with David and Mark—I assure you that you will not be disappointed with any meal one or the other might suggest. Enjoy The Trobador’s posting on our truffle adventures in Provence, including how to…

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